"Chilean wine" conjures up an image of large wineries that produce multiple brands of clean, well-made, ripe and fruity international varietals. But Viña Maitia represents a new direction in Chilean wine, one of smaller producers, unfamiliar regions, older vineyards, and a simpler, more hands-off approach to winemaking. Located in the Maule Valley Viña Maitia makes Vinos de Autoros -- something like "artisanal wines" -- and is operated by the husband and wife team of David Marcel, a French/Basque vigneron, and Loreta Garau, a Chilean enologist. Like many younger generation winemakers their approach incorporates artisanal methods, such as low or no sulfur, natural yeast fermentation in concrete tanks, and aging in neutral vessels. Aupa is their fun, easy-drinking blend of old vine Pais and Carignan. Throw a slight chill on this and watch it disappear.